Kebabs, Biryani and a World More: An Indian Metropolis Secures a Place on UNESCO's Gastronomy List.
Tempting kebabs, fragrant biryani, and airy, ethereal desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has consistently been a dream destination for epicures, with inhabitants and tourists alike celebrating its exquisite cuisine.
An International Accolade
In a recent announcement, Unesco honored it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – placing it on a prestigious roster of world cities and kindling hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's sublime food. With this title, it enters a worldwide network of more than four hundred urban centers across more than 100 countries dedicated to promoting "creativity as a driver of city development that is sustainable".
The honor "is a testament to its profound culinary traditions and vibrant food ecosystem," as stated by a official from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to find a place in this prestigious list of 70 global destinations internationally.
A City Defined by Food
The recognition for this time-honored city comes as no surprise to its residents or dedicated food lovers. Many share the view that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO recognition, this cherished, bustling, and vibrant city – the administrative center of India's most populous state – is at last in the spotlight for what has consistently shaped its essence: an immense devotion for food.
"'What will be cooked, the method of preparation' is a ongoing dialogue from waking up until going to bed in most homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are often judged by the excellence of food that emerges from your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of Nawabs – as it's widely known after its 18th and 19th-century affluent Muslim rulers – is noted for its succulent kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were created, evolved, and raised to sublime levels in their royal kitchens.
These royal kitchens were epicenters of culinary innovations, blending Iranian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were fashioned. As the tale is told that the galouti kebab was devised to cater to an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His culinary artists processed the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so soft that it required no chewing.
But arguably the most significant contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, slow heat, with the container's cover securely closed with a flour paste.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
Besides the famous kebabs and biryani, the cooks also developed a vast array of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a haven for vegetarians.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just highlights seasonal produce but also gives the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Almost on countless corners, there are little shops and carts – little-known treasures that are extremely loved by the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, throngs of people start assembling from early morning at a renowned tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, served in earthenware cups, along with pillowy soft buns lathered with freshly churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can head to a simple joint situated in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was established, the place is still much sought-after for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also presents remarkable seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert available in the winter. The technique of making it is intricate and involved. The vendor beats the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its incredible airy feel.
On chilly mornings, street vendors line up in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Many however note that their children do not want to learn the skill.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's profound food legacy positions it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, however, will occur only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – influenced by generational food businesses, from humble street carts to lively restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is hoped, will encourage more people worldwide to explore these narratives and visit the city to delight in the culinary delights of Lucknow.